Back Vintages
Back Vintage Red Wines
1990 Cabernet Merlot
Healthy colour; a fuller, riper bouquet with sweet fruit and cedary oak; the light to medium bodied palate, likewise, has sweet berry fruit giving good mouthfeel and length.
Peak drinking: Now – 2009.
1989 Cabernet Merlot
Colour still holding well; lifted cassis, mint, leaf spice aromas plus touches of chocolate and cedar, then a medium-bodied palate, still holding sweet fruit with notes of leaf and mint; good length.
Peak drinking: Now – 2006.
1988 Cabernet Sauvignon
Significantly more fruit than the older wines, with dark berry, cassis/blackberry, and weight to the finish.
Peak drinking: Now – 2008.
1987 Lilydale Cabernet Sauvignon
Light to medium red-brown; a savoury/dusty/earthy/truffly bouquet, with some spicy flavours coming through on the palate; has length and good finish. The name 'Lilydale' was recognised by the EU, Yarra Valley not. Only used for the 1987 vintage.
Peak drinking: Now – 2005.
1986 The Cabernets
Despite its low alcohol, still holding, light and lively, but does show some green, under-ripe flavours.
Peak drinking: Now.
1985 Cabernet Sauvignon Four Vineyards
The bouquet is diminished, fully developed with some earthy overtones, but the palate still has powerful structure and (within the context of the Yarra) plenty of tannins.
Peak drinking: Now.
1998 Pinot Noir
Colour: bright, fresh, full red. Bouquet: fragrant, damson plum fruit aromas. Palate: clean, fresh and silky, but perhaps slightly simple. Has good length, and might still improve.
Peak drinking: Now - 2007.
1997 Pinot Noir
Colour: youthful, still with hints of purple. Bouquet: a complex and intense web of predominantly primary pinot fruit. Palate: much deeper and more powerful than any wine since 1992; lots of plum and briary varietal fruit; good oak.
Peak drinking: Now - 2008.
1996 Pinot Noir
Colour: very good light red. Bouquet: aromatic cherry, plum, spice and a touch of forest floor. Palate: cherry and plum fruit; great mouthfeel, line and length; finest possible lingering tannins. Will never be better than it is now, but should hold for some years to come.
Peak drinking: Now - 2008.
1995 Pinot Noir
Colour: quite youthful. Bouquet: aromas of cherry along with more minerally/savoury notes. Palate: surprisingly bright and fresh, with strawberry fruit; light, but holding in there very well. At its peak, but should hold for a couple of years yet.
Peak drinking: To 2006.
1994 Pinot Noir
Colour: light brick-red. Bouquet: lifted, fragrant, spicy/foresty/savoury notes along with that elusive aroma of violets. Palate: rounded and soft, with attractive cherry fruit surrounded by the more savoury characters. Fine tannins, excellent length and acidity. Definitely at its peak, but will hold for a few years yet.
Peak drinking: To 2006.
1991 Pinot Noir
Another level of complexity and intensity, with spice, stalk, game and forest floor aromas, which are reflected on the palate, joined by cherry and dark plum fruit. Winner of the George Mackey Award for the best wine exported from Australia in calendar 1992.
Peak drinking: Now – 2006.
1990 Pinot Noir
As it was from an early age, much lighter in colour; intriguing five-spice aromas, the palate, notwithstanding its development, quite elegant and fresh. The fruit is dropping, however, and the wine should be drunk sooner rather than later; by 2005 at the latest.
Peak drinking: Now – 2005.
1989 Pinot Noir
Very light spicy, savoury aromas and flavours; some fragrance and remnants of cherry fruit. Once again only for those who like old pinot, and to be drunk ASAP.
Peak drinking: Now.
1988 Four Vineyards Pinot Noir
Good colour for a 15-year-old pinot; the bouquet lives up to the promise of the colour, with plenty of power to the mix of cherry, plum and forest floor aromas. The palate, likewise, has plenty of mid-palate fruit, providing both depth and complexity.
Peak drinking: Now - 2006.
1987 New Pinot
Light brick red; was made to be consumed within two years of vintage, and it is amazing the wine still has anything left to offer. Only for those who like old pinot noir, however.
Peak drinking: Now.
1986 Three Vineyards Pinot Noir
Light to medium red-brown; a fully developed but quite fragrant bouquet has a complex mix of plum, truffle, mushroom, spice and a hint of sandalwood. The palate still has life and complexity, lengthened by a twist of fractionally green acidity on the finish.
Peak drinking: Now.
1985 Pinot Noir
Light to medium red-brown; fully developed; a savoury bouquet with spice, leather and a faint hint of mint; the palate has started to thin out, but while clearly past its best, is not broken.
Peak drinking: Now.
1998 Reserve Pinot Noir
Colour: clear, but full red. Bouquet: far greater complexity than the varietal, with some lifted black cherry, plum and briar aromas. Palate: dominated by the sweet plum flavours at its centre. Considerable depth and structure to the tannins; obvious oak. Does show the warmer vintage.
Peak drinking: Now - 2009.
1997 Reserve Pinot Noir
Colour: deeper, but also very good hue. Bouquet: more complex and intense than the varietal, with dark fruits, all-spice aromas and a touch of forest. Palate: more structure than the varietal, due in part to the lingering tannins. Has largely eaten up the oak in which it was matured.
Peak drinking: Now - 2008+.
1996 Reserve Pinot Noir
Colour: deeper than the varietal, but similar hue. Bouquet: complex array of spice, plum, forest and cedar aromas. Palate: exceptional power, structure and texture to the mix of cherry and plum fruit. The new oak is evident but not dominant.
Peak drinking: 2008+.
1995 Reserve Pinot Noir
Colour: light red brick. Bouquet: showing slightly mushroomy/earthy, bottle-developed characters, not at all unpleasant. Palate: rounder and fuller than the varietal; dark cherry, leather and foresty flavours.
Peak drinking: Drink now.
1994 Reserve Pinot Noir
Colour: deeper than the varietal. Palate: more structure, with spice and herb flavours. A wine with very distinct bottle variation owing to the cork problems.
Peak drinking: Best drunk up quickly.
1991 Reserve Pinot Noir
Fuller again than the varietal wine, with a similar mix of spice, game, forest floor and cherry aromas, the palate with greater structure, and some new charry oak still evident in the background. Definite life in front of it.
Peak drinking: Now – 2007.
1985 Shiraz
An attractive curio, still holding quite good colour; as with all of the wines from the 1980s, light to medium bodied, and the lack of concentration is now showing through.
Peak drinking: Now.
The growing season began well, as winter rainfall provided some moisture to the soil & the risk of frost had been reduced. However, well below average spring rainfall caused considerable concern, with irrigation dams being at record low levels. Fortunately, late spring and early summer rains fell just at the right time, particularly as fruit set & crops were above average. A cool February allowed even ripening with good acid retention, however a blistering heatwave in March made conditions extremely difficult. A vintage with two distinctive halves, 2008 will be remembered as being compressed, hot and very challenging.
Back Vintage White Wines
1998 Reserve Chardonnay
Light to medium straw-green. Very complex and obvious toasty oak inputs on the bouquet, nonetheless, well integrated. Fills the mouth with gentle ripe peach, nectarine and fig; the creamy texture and structure of great character and quality. To 2010.
1997 Reserve Chardonnay
Medium straw-gold; rich honeyed and smooth aromas are followed by a palate which has surprising elegance and flow, with a tighter texture and body. Seems to be undergoing a phase in its development. To 2006.
1996 Reserve Chardonnay
Developed gold; the fragrant and aromatic bouquet with grilled nut and toasty oak overtones to the fruit belies the colour, being fresher than expected. A supple, smooth and well-balanced palate, fruit-driven, with melon, cashew and fig; excellent acidity and length. To 2008.
1995 Reserve Chardonnay
Full gold; very much in the style of the 1995 varietal, with soft honeyed flavours which are starting to diminish as the oak pokes out. Now - 2004.
1994 Reserve Chardonnay
Colour: Deep yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex, tangy, cool grown aromas, with some cashew and fig in the background. Palate: Continues the tangy drive of the bouquet, with that Burgundian-like, slightly herbal, background. Acidity gives the wine great length.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Should hold past 2006, but is best now.
1993 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: Take out "It is that...wine together" and replace with: The wine peaked around 2000, and is now on the descent. Significant bottle variation.
As is, then Palate: As it was as a young wine, very powerful and intense; the fruit is now starting to dry out, exposing the alcohol.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.
1992 Reserve Chardonnay
Straw-gold; ultra complex and very strong bottle-developed aromas; a round, full palate with quince, fig and honeysuckle, before a toasty/nutty finish. A wine with an excellent show record, but showing considerable bottle variation. To 2006.
1991 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: A warm to hot vintage, with lower than average yields; great for red wines, but did create some challenges for the whites. Notwithstanding that, this wine won three trophies, four gold, three silver and eight bronze medals.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet and Palate: Baked cinnamon spice aromas, partly bottle developed, and partly oak derived, are once again balanced and held together with good acidity running through to a long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.
1990 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: The 1990 vintage seemed perfect at the time. It only rained once during the entire harvest period, and then at night. High levels of ripeness were achieved effortlessly with above average cropping levels, and it was in fact the higher than normal yield which was to be the ultimate downfall of some, but not all, of the wines.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Toasty, with soft but ripe fruit underneath. Palate: Some preserved fruit/spice/honey flavours, then acidity to close. Show medals included two golds.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Present drinking, but should hold to 2006.
1998 Chardonnay
Bright straw-green; melon, stone fruit and fig aromas and flavours; barrel ferment/cashew characters evident but not dominant. Lovely mouthfeel and texture, with the usual balance and length. Now - 2008+.
1997 Chardonnay
Slightly deeper colour than the 1998, but still with healthy green tinges. Complex, rich and ripe nectarine and peach aromas of considerable intensity. Notwithstanding the cooler vintage, has a lot of concentration of fruit (and oak). Now - 2007.
1996 Chardonnay
Bright straw-gold, with green tinges. Vibrant, lifted white peach/nectarine/peach kernel aromas. The fruit-driven palate fully reflects the bouquet, with some grilled nut/oak notes in the background. Now - 2007.
1995 Chardonnay
Medium straw-green; soft peach and nectarine fruit aromas and flavours, and the typical touch of nutty oak. Does not have the length or concentration of the better vintage wines, but has not broken up. Now - 2004.
1994 Chardonnay
Colour: Medium to full yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex, rich bottle developed aromas. Palate: Distinctive citrus and tangerine fruit offset by a touch of creamy cashew flavours; the hallmark acidity drives through the long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Up to 1998.
1993 Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: As is, then: The wine won four gold, two silver and six bronze medals.
Colour: Deep burnished yellow-gold. Bouquet: Rich, ripe citrus and stonefruit aromas. Palate: Has now rounded out, with lots of honey and white peach fruit, the driving force being the acidity running through the still long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now, but should easily hold until 2006 or longer.
1992 Chardonnay
Developed gold-straw; a highly complex and aromatic bouquet with obvious bottle development characters. White peach, quince, honey and honeysuckle are all to be found. Now - 2008.
1989 Rising Vineyard Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: Given that 1989 was one of the two worst vintages since 1985, and was (relatively speaking) better for red wines than white, this wine had turned out to be a surprise. Virtually written-off five years ago, it seems to have a new lease of life. The only caveat is the adage that there are no great old wines, only great old bottles.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Bottle developed aromas with some Burgundian characters. Palate: Toast, honey and citrus, with acidity through to the finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.
1988 Four Vineyards Chardonnay
Growing area: Yarra Valley.
Harvested: April 1988.
Winemaker's comments: All things considered, 1988 has to be the best vintage between 1985 and 2003, with perfect growing season conditions producing medium-sized crops of unblemished grapes. A multiple gold medal winning wine, very similar in style to the benchmark 1988 Rising Shantell Chardonnay which won four trophies and was placed second in the 1991 Gault Millau Olympics (to a La Montrachet of Ramonet).
Colour: Glowing yellow-green. Bouquet: Ultra-complex melon and nectarine fruit set against a mix of barrel ferment and bottle developed complexity. Palate: Harmonious and long; perfect balance; if the corks hold and cellaring conditions are good, with an indefinite future.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2008.
1988 Rising & Shantell Chardonnay
Medium straw; still wonderfully complex, lifted and fresh aromas of stone fruit and fig, gentle nutty barrel ferment inputs in perfect balance. A fine, still tight palate, with excellent texture and creaminess; has great length and finesse, and will continue aging gracefully. To 2008.
1987 Yarra Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay
Grape variety: Chardonnay.
Growing Area: Yarra Valley.
Winemaker's comments: 100 per cent barrel fermented in 100 per cent new Vosges oak at 12-14˚C in a refrigerated and insulated cool room. Ten per cent of the wine was taken through malolactic, and lees contact (with stirring) was continued until November 1987. A wine which is developing exceedingly slowly, but building great complexity; retasted at various times over its life, and has always developed slowly.
Colour: Glowing yellow-green. Bouquet: Clean and still remarkably fresh. Palate: Elegant grapefruit/citrus fruit sustained by lingering acidity, the oak subtle.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2007.
1986 Three Vineyards Chardonnay
As is, then: Retasted June 2003 with almost no change – amazing.
1994 Fume Blanc
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex and rich, with some tropical fruit. Palate: Rich, with a big impact and good length.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Another surprise. When released we said "To be enjoyed at any time over the next two years, preferably sooner rather than later". Nine years later the wine still has life; to 2005.
1992 Fume Blanc
Winemaker's comments: From one of the best years since Coldstream Hills was established in 1985. All of the wines have fulfilled the promise they held when young.
Colour: Bright yellow-green. Bouquet: Fresh and powerful, with strong, citrussy/tangy fruit. Palate: Lemon and gooseberry flavours, with the link sustained by balanced but clear-cut acidity.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2007.
1990 Fume Blanc
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner, Semillon
Growing area: Yarra Valley
Winemaker's comments:1990 was an incomparably better year than 1989, and while this wine was originally considered to have a two-year cellaring span, it is still very much alive.
Colour: Green-gold. Bouquet: Crisp and clean with citrus, herb and gooseberry aromas. Palate: The flavours track the bouquet in a light-bodied frame.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2004.
1989 Fume Blanc
Still showing fully mature sauvignon blanc character, sustained by lingering acidity. The original span was given as 1991-1994. Almost ten years later, the wine is still holding, but should be drunk sooner rather than later. Take out "as shown by its progressive development to December 1990" and replace with new sentence. 'It did'.
1988 Semillon
As is (except spelling of Limousin); then (Retasted June 2003 and has fulfilled all of the promise of a long life). Glowing gold; aromatic lemon and honeysuckle aromas and flavours. Excellent balance and acidity. Could hold for another five years (to 2008).
1987 Hillcrest and Shantell Vineyards Semillon
A rare example of a fully mature Yarra Valley Semillon underlining the exceptional aging potential of the variety. As is; then (Retasted June 2003 with near identical notes to that of May 1999).